THE ANTI-AGING POWER OF ROSEHIP BOTANICAL EXTRACT

IN ESSENCE…

• Derived from the berry-like ‘pseudo fruits’ of the wild rose species Rosa canina, Rosehip Botanical Extract is a soft, fine powder that displays a naturally vibrant magenta or purple-red color, somewhat reminiscent of the fruit itself.
• One of the most striking and unique features of Rosehips is its natural Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) content. The botanical extract, standardized for this active constituent, delivers cosmetic benefits that are predominantly anti-aging and anti-inflammatory. This makes it suitable for a wide range of nourishing products aimed to protect, rejuvenate, firm, soothe, condition, or strengthen the skin and hair.
• Added to topical formulations, Rosehip Botanical Extract can also function as an all-natural colorant, imbuing the final product with elegant shades of light pink, red, or orange.

WHAT ARE ROSEHIPS, AND HOW ARE ROSEHIP EXTRACTS MADE?

The Rose family (Rosaceae) is a vast and diverse group of more than 2000 species of shrubs, climbers, bushes, and trees. One of the most well-known wild rose species belonging to this botanical family is the Rosa canina plant, also known as ‘Dog Rose’ or ‘Witches’ Briar’. This spiky, clambering plant bearing elegant, pinkish-white roses can often be seen climbing along with wild hedge shrubs, woodland, or grassland regions. The ‘Hips’, or ‘Rosehips’, are small, apple-like ‘pseudo fruits’ of the Dog Rose, appearing in pretty shades of red, orange, or even purple. Edible and full of protective nutrients (especially Vitamin C), Rosehips have been featured for hundreds of years in traditional phytomedicine and natural health remedies.

The Rosehip Botanical Extract is derived from the natural components of these powerful berry structures of Rosa canina. If the Rosehip is split open, its seeds and the shell can be seen. The seeds, also called ‘achenes’, are the small, pale seeds covered by a lightish skin. Botanically speaking, this is in fact the true Rosehip fruit. The Rosehip shell is the reddish pulp, also called the ‘hypanthium’. Using alcohol and water, the principal constituents are extracted in a gentle maceration process from both the Rosehip seeds and shells, and filtered to form a concentrated solution. The solution is then spray dried to give rise to a soft, all-natural powder extract that can vary in color, but maybe predominantly pink, red, or purple.

Botanical extracts can naturally vary in their concentrations of active compounds due to factors such as their crop conditions, which can include the amount of rainfall, sun exposure, and harvest time. The techniques used for processing, extracting, and drying the extract can also influence the composition of the final extract. With Rosehips, it is ideal for processing methods to be as gentle and as heat-free as possible, as Vitamin C can be destroyed through excessive heating or treatment. High-quality suppliers of Rosehip Extracts will introduce some kind of standardization method to ensure the actives are present in desired concentrations each time you buy or use the extract. NDA’s Rosehip Botanical Extract, for example, is standardized for Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) at a rate of 5%.

HISTORY OF ROSEHIP BOTANICAL EXTRACT

The Rosa canina plant has a rich but somewhat cryptic history. Its use as a therapeutic and medicinal plant dates back to the 1st century BC; in Ancient Rome, a philosopher by the name of Gaius Plinius Secundus (‘Pliny the Elder’) is believed to have been the first to write about how it could be used as a herbal remedy to cure rabid dog bites. It is thought this is how the botanical got its unusual name ‘Dog Rose’. It is unknown how the species acquired the nickname ‘Witches’ Briar’, but one possibility is an old association with magical properties and the ability to ward off negative spirits. Indeed, Rosehips’ past is linked to a sense of spirituality and piety; within Christianity, for example, the very first rosary beads were made from Rosehip shells ornately dried and strung together.

Rosehips have a historic connection in many parts of the world due to its reputed medicinal and herbal properties. In Ancient Egypt, they were thought to be used by physicians to heal various ailments, and artwork depicting this wild rose has been found in pyramids. In Europe, a tangy yet light-flavored Rosehip tea was and used to alleviate pains, aches, and inflammation. In the 18th century England, the disease scurvy terrified the sailors who embarked on risky voyages only to die from malnutrition. Then a fatal disease causing fatigue, soreness, and destruction of the gums due to a prolonged deficiency of Vitamin C, it soon became known that Rosehip Tea worked as an effective prevention for scurvy. Because of the lack of fresh citrus fruit and vegetables during and following the Second World War, Rosehip syrup was another popular recipe encouraged by governments to supply families with much-needed Vitamin C, and was also fed to children to help keep sicknesses away.

It was only during the end of the 20th century that innovation on Rosehip extracts for skincare really blossomed. Rosehip Carrier Oil, for example, has been cherished in the cosmetics and natural skincare industry due to its gentleness, non-greasiness, and restorative properties. Research has since shown that the powdered Rosehip Botanical Extract can be helpful for many skin ailments, and is especially useful in skin rejuvenation and anti-aging applications. This is particularly down to a rich Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) content, in addition to other protective compounds including Polyphenols, Carotenoids, and other vitamins. Indeed, fresh Rosehips surpass other citrus fruits to boast an unrivaled Vitamin C concentration of about 300 mg in the pulp and 20 mg in the seeds per 100 g of fruit. Compare this to an orange (thought to have the highest amount of Vitamin C in all citrus fruits), which only has 60 mg in 100g of fruit, and you can see how Rosehips are truly remarkable!

ROSEHIP BOTANICAL EXTRACT BENEFITS

In cosmetic applications for the skin and hair, Rosehip Botanical Extract is most well-known for its anti-aging and anti-inflammatory benefits. High in Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) and other antioxidant compounds including Polyphenols, it displays an excellent antioxidant profile, which can be used to enrich many cosmetic preparations and formulations designed to protect, rejuvenate, firm, soothe, condition, or strengthen the skin and hair.

In skincare products, the addition of Rosehip Extract can contribute to an improvement in the appearance of skin elasticity, the brightening of dull or discolored complexions, and also support the skin’s protection against environmental pollutants as well as UV light. For skin that is parched, rough, or flaky, Rosehip can provide gentle hydration and make it feel soft, smooth, and youthful while reducing sensations of irritation and redness. The extract has also been shown to specifically reduce the look of other signs of aging, such as wrinkles, age spots, scarring, loss of skin texture, and reduction of suppleness. This is mainly attributed to its abundance of Vitamin C, which is implicated in collagen synthesis. As the skin ages, the amount of collagen synthesized can decrease; topically supplying agents such as Vitamin C-rich Rosehip that can accelerate this process can in turn help firm and tighten the skin. Overall, Rosehip Botanical Extract is ideal for formulations targeting mature, dry, or sensitive skin types.

In hair care products, Rosehip Extract can help combat the natural aging of hair and improve its healthy appearance through its strong antioxidant properties. In doing so, it supports the restoration of moisture and vitality of hair strands, the elimination of frizz or split ends, and may also help protect against hair loss. Another major benefit is offered for hair that is chemically treated, bleached, or otherwise damaged due to heat or coloring. Incorporated as an active ingredient in strengthening or repairing hair treatments or products, Rosehip Botanical Extract can help deeply nourish the scalp and strands while safeguarding against further external damage.

Used in natural and herbal medicine, Rosehip Botanical Extract is reputed to boost immunity as well as help with various medical conditions such as diabetes, chronic pain, digestive issues, and internal inflammation. It is traditionally used as a remedy for joint pain, especially for those suffering from osteoarthritis. Due to its strong nutritional benefits, Rosehip is incorporated into supplements that support general well-being and fitness. It is important to note that NDA’s Rosehip Botanical Extract is meant for external use only.

As illustrated, Rosehip Botanical Extract is reputed to have distinct therapeutic properties. The following highlights its many benefits and the kinds of activity it is believed to show:

COSMETIC: Protective, Reparative, Lifting, Firming, Soothing, Anti-Inflammatory, Softening, Smoothing, Brightening, Strengthening

MEDICINAL: Immunity-Boosting, General Health-Enhancing, Analgesic, Anti-Inflammatory, Anti-Diabetic, Carminative, Energy-Enhancing

ROSEHIP BOTANICAL EXTRACT USES IN SKIN CARE & COSMETICS

Rosehip Botanical Extract can be incorporated into a wide array of nourishing cosmetic and topical formulations. In moisturizing and anti-aging applications, it is prominently featured in products such as face creams, eye creams, serums, sunscreens, and firming lotions. Due to its anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing qualities, it is also used in rinse-off and bath and shower products such as soaps, body scrubs, face masks, shower gels, and bath bombs. In hair care products, Rosehip is featured in conditioning or protective formulations for shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, serums, and styling gels. Natural skin and hair care formulators will find the Rosehip powdered extract especially appealing as it can act as a natural colorant due to its vibrant purple-red hues.

Rosehip Powder can be added to cosmetics at a recommended rate of 0.5 – 2% by weight. Typically, it should be incorporated at the cool-down phase. To use directly in an emulsion, add a desired quantity of the extract into 5-10 mL of hot water and mix until dissolved, before combining with the rest of the ingredients. Rosehip Botanical Extract can also be used to make skin-loving tinctures that can then be added to a formulation of choice. To make a Rosehip tincture, add 1 g (0.04 oz) of Rosehip Extract to 100 mL (3.38 fl. oz.) of a preferred solvent such as Alcohol or Glycerine. This can be used as an additive for many cosmetic bases. As an example, a rich and fast-absorbing under-eye cream with the added antioxidant benefits of Rosehip can be made by combining 0.5 mL of this tincture to 100 mL of NDA’s Marigold Eye Cream Cosmetic Base.

In facial mists and toners, Rosehip Extract can provide a refreshing finish to the skin while enhancing the skin’s natural complexion. To make a gentle homemade face toner, combine 100 mL (3.38 fl. oz.) of a preferred Hydrosol with 1/4 tsp. of Rosehip Botanical Extract, 2 drops of Lavender Essential Oil, and 2 drops of Polysorbate 20 in a spritz bottle. Cap before shaking vigorously and spritz lightly onto a cleansed face for instant freshness.

To make an easy, pampering shampoo that supports the healing of dry and damaged hair, add 0.5 g (0.018 oz) of Rosehip Botanical Extract to 100 g (3.5 oz) of NDA’s Shampoo Base Ultra Premium in a dispenser bottle and mix by capping and shaking thoroughly. This SLS-free and fortified shampoo will gently purify hair without over-drying and reduce brittleness. To make a strengthening Rosehip-enriched hair mask, combine 1/2 cup of Shea Butter and 1/2 cup of Avocado Carrier Oil in a heat-resistant container. Heat (you may use a double boiler or water bath) until the butter and oil have thoroughly melted. Remove from the heat and, when the mixture has cooled down adequately, stir in 1-2 tsp. of Rosehip Botanical Extract and a few drops of Essential Oil. Cool in the fridge for a few hours before whipping the contents using a hand mixture to reach a soft, creamy texture. To use this hair mask, apply generously onto dry hair strands and leave on for roughly 20 minutes before washing and shampooing your hair as usual.

To make gorgeous light pink-red bath bombs that use no synthetic colorants, add 2 cups of Sodium Bicarbonate, 1 cup of Citric Acid, 1 cup of Bath Salts, and 1-3 tsp. of Rosehip Botanical Extract into a bowl and whisk. The more Rosehip powder that is added, the deeper the color of the resulting bath bombs. Next, into a glass jar, add 2 tbsp. of Sweet Almond Carrier Oil and up to 15 drops of an Essential Oil blend of your choice. Pour in your wet ingredients to the bowl and mix, ensuring the color is even. Spray a little bit of Witch Hazel Distillate as needed until the correct bath bomb consistency is achieved. Fill and shape this mixture using your desired mold, and allow it to dry for 48 hours before using or packaging.

A GUIDE TO NDA’S ROSEHIP BOTANICAL EXTRACT & ITS BENEFITS

ROSEHIP BOTANICAL EXTRACT

Botanical Name: Rosa canina

Standardization: 5% Ascorbic Acid

Believed to:

• Be a fine powder that is reddish-purple in color.
• Be naturally rich in Vitamin C and other antioxidants, including Polyphenols and Carotenoids.
• Be ideal for skin and hair care products or treatments designed to improve the appearance of dull, dry, or aging skin, or help support the healing of dry, damaged, or thinning hair.

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES

Interested in exploring Liquid Botanical Extracts? Check out our detailed guide on the uses and benefits of various Liquid Botanical Extracts here.

Learn more about the invigorating, strengthening, and balancing properties of other Powder Fruit Extracts here.

ROSEHIP BOTANICAL EXTRACT SIDE EFFECTS

As with all other New Directions Aromatics products, Rosehip Botanical Extract is for external use only. It is imperative to consult a medical practitioner before using this product for therapeutic purposes. Pregnant and nursing women are especially advised not to use Rosehip Botanical Extract without the medical advice of a physician. This product should always be stored in an area that is inaccessible to children, especially those under the age of 7.

Those with the following health conditions are recommended to be advised by a physician: cancer, diabetes, skin disorders, iron disorders, hormone-related ailments, and conditions of the heart, liver, or kidney. Individuals that are taking prescription drugs, undergoing major surgery, or who are at a greater risk of experiencing strokes, heart attacks, or atherosclerosis are also advised to seek medical consultation prior to use.

Prior to using Rosehip Botanical Extract, a skin test is recommended. This can be done by diluting 1 Tsp. Rosehip Botanical Extract in 1 tsp. distilled water and applying a dime-size amount of this blend to a small area of skin that is not sensitive. Rosehip must never be used near the eyes, inner nose, and ears, or on any other particularly sensitive areas of skin. The topical side effects of using Rosehip Botanical Extract are not well known, but it may aggravate skin irritations in some individuals.

In the event of an allergic reaction, discontinue use of the product and see a doctor, pharmacist, or allergist immediately for a health assessment and appropriate remedial action. To prevent side effects, consult with a medical professional prior to use.